Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Back to schooolll....

9/8
Today was my second day at the wonderful pre-school that now makes up my days Mon.-Fri. We always start with songs (in 3 languages: Kinyarwanda, English, and French) out in the courtyard all with accompanying moves. Then I started with English class in the "Baby class." The students are between 3-4 and there are just under 20 of them. They all have to wear their uniforms which are little jumpers and plaid shirts (a.k.a. really adorable). I had no idea what they had 'studied' previously and no book to teach from. They are used to just seeing things written on a board and then repeating whatever the teacher says. They have memorized the alphabet and an alphabet chart "A is for apple, B is for ball, etc." However, I was gathering that they didn't really understand what that all meant. They learned a different version of the alphabet song in which they repeat L-Q so when they have to recite the alphabet without singing it they get caught in a loop at those letters...again contributing to my belief that they were blindly repeating.
I was still figuring it all out on my feet so with the littlest ones I just tried to get them to answer "What letter does cat start with?" To get that conveyed, I used my broken kinyarwanda and a lot of repetition myself. However, by the end some of them were actually getting the idea and I taught them a song. We'll be doing some review Thursday.

With the two sets of older kids I started with the classic song "We're Following the Leader" leading them around the room and doing different things with my hands, arms and feet. This lead me to the idea of teaching, "go, slow, stop, left, right, forward and backward" while they ran around the room. They seemed amused and by the end they actually understood what they meant even if they won't remember tomorrow. Again, repetition is key BUT I was encouraged by them answering my questions by the end of the lesson. The first step is adopting how I can teach to how they're used to learning while throwing in some new methods that might just help.

The moral of the story is that I learned a lot from them and really really enjoyed myself and can't wait to continue. I also noticed that after they lined up for bathroom time...none of them washed their hands. I think I'm gonna build kid-sized gerrycan hand washing stations outside with the nuns and then do a lesson on hand washing, with a song of course. They love to learn in song, that much I now know.

Saturday, August 6, 2011

biking! and farming!

5/8
Oh man a la mancha! My first real long bike ride, which I had intended to be twice as long, just about killed me yesterday. Holy altitude batman! I didn't think it was that bad and then as i was making my way up a hill (that didn't LOOK that steep) I had to pull a Rwandan and walk my bike. I missed immediately the small amount of distance created by being ON the bike when the children, who had been running alongside my bike, started to close in. For some reason, they always do that, for a certain amount of time they're fine just watching and laughing at you from a few feet away and then after about 3 minutes, they always get closer! Maybe it's because that's when the crowd usually grows from about 10 to 50...or centripetal force or something...When they made it even more difficult to breathe (as if the altitude and my 3 months of no real exercise weren't enough), I just jumped back on my bike and rode the downhill all the way home. They need to find a way for you to just be able to ride bikes down hill without having to go uphill...or maybe it's the uphill that make the downhill seem so great.

Today was an ultimate Peace Corps day. I reluctantly rolled out of bed with the sun at 6 so I'd have time to make some breakfast and prepare myself for the hard work I knew was ahead of me. I met with the women with whom I'm hoping to work and got my hoe! We went down to the field and started at it. They were pleasantly surprised that I knew how to work my hoe (unfortunately, any jokes I could've made about working my hoe would've not had the desired effect). I worked for about an hour and a half in the UNGODLIEST of sun that made me remember that I was in Africa. We of course, attracted an audience several times, but I was amazed how many people just walked by. It was one of the only moments of anonymity I've had here and it was awesome. It felt like some degree of integration was starting to take place. To not be noticed because I was IN IT was awesome. If I had had Rwandan clothes and a head scarf on, I might've had even fewer people notice! This was my single most motivating moment in terms of integrating into the society. I don't know if it's my contrary nature or my previous experiences or my constant American desire to be an individual, but I've fought some aspects of the integration...I'm still figuring out what aspects I have to fight to keep and what I'm allowing myself to give up for the sake of comfort and understanding.
While working, I was using the time to try and process their conversation and see what I could make of it. At some point they felt the need to capture the moment and asked if I had a camera. Rwandans, I've found, are obsessed with photos. If you have them, they want to see them and sometimes ask to keep them (No no, that's my family.) If you have a camera, they MUST get a picture with you. I think it's partially because most muzungus just come and go. When I told them I'd be back Weds. and the next Friday, they were happy and surprised. I think I won some points and because I got some blisters but told them, "Ntakibazo." (No problem.) Even though, I have 5 really angry blisters on my hands now that were not happy when I went later to wash my clothes.
The nuns then insisted I sit and have some coffee/tea and some of their little beignets. I didn't protest, but I did ask for some water and got COLD water!! OUT OF A FRIDGE! It was EPIC! Then, I got cheese! ALSO from a FRIDGE! It was the best day ever. I felt very much like a Peace Corps Volunteer and also happy to be where I was and doing what I was doing. I have to remember those moments clearly when running water, 24hr stores, and shorts start to sound terribly appealing.

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

New View

3/8
My first glimpses of hope of actually having a purpose here! I haven't started at the pre-school yet, that'll be Monday. BUT I met with the women's group today that farms on the land that the nuns have. I'm meeting again with them on Friday to guhinga (farm) and just try and talk to them to get to know them better. I'm hoping I can ingratiate myself enough to be able to start asking about their lives and getting info that I can use to actually help them. Part of the plan is to help them with nutrition classes, which are great...BUT I'd like to find out what THEY think they need. I do like that part of the Peace Corps model of development. I do think it's extremely important to sit down and hash out what's important for them, what they see their problems as, and what they see as their resources and what they can bring to the table. It makes it exceedingly more difficult because you have to reconcile their grievances with your capabilities and what's real and possible in 2 years. I think this might be the most difficult part of PC, because you want to help so much and they want the help...but first you have to figure out how AND you have to accept that it's not possible to do all the things you want to do and they want you to help with. It's so hard to look these people in the eye and tell them, "I have no idea how to help...but I'll figure it out!"
Part of the problem with the muzungu mystique is that they expect you to be able to solve all their problems, quickly and easily. So I guess the first part of my work is explaining that it's not easy and that we'll have to figure it all out together.

Adventure TIME!

Adventures in Kigali- 27/7
My first time in the big city all on my own...rather lonely really. I am thankful for the free wifi and iced coffee more than anything. I did get some exciting life staples...like soy sauce and pancake mix and peanut M&Ms. I think they'll make it possible for me to survive here, but the oats I've been in search of are elusive. Thus, making my "baking no-bake cookies to make everyone like me" plan very difficult....Last chance at the restaurant supply store, although they're probably ungodly expensive. Last time I got them at T2000...but today for some reason, I couldn't find T2000.
Yeah, I've been there twice.
Yeah, I walked around in circles for half an hour.
No, I still couldn't find it.
But! I did finally find a can opener so I can feed my little Fivel kitty the sardines that have been sitting on my desk/table since I got them from my host fam. A really sweet thought...but I can't bring myself to eat them. Fivel, however, will LOVE them.
Now, I'm trying to leave Bourbon but I can't remember the kinyarwanda word for "check"...sometimes I really really miss having an LCF on-hand to answer all my language and cultural cues. My ultimate goal is to find someone at site like that. Seeing as I see my supervisor only about once a week, I'm thinking the two housepeople that work at my complex (who finally seem to like me) could be very helpful in that capacity. I will, of course, show my appreciation with no-bakes (once I find oats) and with peanut butter (now that I know they like it). I'm really happy PB is such a universal good. It proved a favorite in Brazil when I made PB cookies, ditto in Ireland (although my office preferred scones) and now here. Thanks George Washington Carver. You're my favorite.

Adventures in Nyagatare- 31/7
So an exciting week for me! Lots of change of scenery! On Sunday, Alex and I planned a trip to our exciting, buzzing metropolis of Nyagatare! Though neither of us had actually taken public transport there yet, we braved the wilds of this rugged East and made it! We met up with another PCV from the area and had a lovely (though crazily overpriced) brochette and frites lunch complete with salad! it was very exciting. I think i might have to resign myself to the fact that salads will now be onions, cabbage and shredded carrots. I'm gonna attempt to plant lettuce...but I first have to find a space to do it. Not sure how well received a garden in our courtyard would be. I might still push that idea and just get everybody working on it to make it a fun project. I never really started a garden before, but I have a book...the process will be like everything else here...figuring it out as I go along. Not a bad method really, once you embrace discomfort. That step is critical to life as a PCV. Walking to my bathroom, from my shower, cooking dinner, going to the store to buy bread, planting my herbs...all of this must be done FIRST with the idea that you WILL be watched as you do it, and SECOND that they will likely think you're nuts.
Last night, as I was making pineapple fried rice, i was cutting up my carrots and one of the cooks said to me quite simply, "those aren't good carrots." When I asked why she replied because they were so small. I tried to explain, they were just as good, just tasted a little different because they were baby carrots. Not entirely sure how that was received in the end. I also get a lot of scrutiny for not adding a lot of salt or oil to my cooking. Saying that I liked it that way wasn't really understood so I tried to explain a family history of heart disease. Luckily, as soon as you mention a doctor, while they may not agree, they'll accept that as reasoning. I'm trying to use all this, first, to understand how to live here and make myself accepted (if not understood) and second, to see how that will all affect what I'm trying to do here in terms of improving community health. Every experience here is a lesson.

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

freedom!

Yesterday saw a refreshing change of pace that will be my future! Apparently, my location A.D.D. is just as present here in Rwanda. Luckily, I think the life of a PCV and my project and life will satisfy it. Yesterday, I got to have adventure time with my friend Alex, the 2nd nearest PCV, and the nearest from my group! Twas lovely! I didn't really have a reason to be down there, so I'm glad I asked the priests about it and hitched a ride down there! I got a free meal (which is a blessing in these days of infinite toast, ramen, and random veggies with little sauce over rice). AND I got to go on a hike up a hill and we found a spot to chill and chat on rocks. It was awesome! So that took up my whole day yesterday and today I'm just doing some cleaning (incl. my awful giant pile of laundry) and making my kinyarwanda study plans and working on my budget and setting things up for my day tomorrow in Kigali -the magical place of iced coffee, pizza and free wifi! They discourage us from spending too much time there since it is such a muzungu place (white people) and also, NOT our sites. Makes sense, but making it the forbidden land I think creates even more appeal. That could also just be my contrary nature. Can't help it, totally inherited that one from my dear mother. Unfortunately for Dad, we all did.

Triumph of the day- finding eggs! it only took 2 weeks! but it did require a change in perspective and talking to the right people. I was going about looking for them the muzungu way, searching in shops and asking the owners...NOT the way to do it here. I was having tea and introducing on of the umucozi's (houseperson) to Peanut Butter (which they always LOVE) and asking her what she was up to for the day. She said she was making an omlette and lunch for some guests of the parish. So I asked where she was gonna buy the eggs and she looked at me like i was dumb and answered "from the priests [duh]" who just live up the hill. So I asked her if she could pick some up for me and she's replied, "of course, how many do you want"...wow. so easy...IF i can get things the Rwandan way. consider this lesson learned.

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

On a day like today...

The long and winding road...(goes in a circle in Rwanda). Today has been like so many others, it's simply up and down...a constant flux between, "what am I doing here?" and "look at all that I could (see, learn, etc.) do here!" This weekend was absolute madness because we had a 'Youth Conference' and the thing is, I'm sure whatever you're picturing is not how this was. First of all, the thing was centered around the Center that I happen to live in. So if the thought of a couple hundred kids running around isn't scary enough, now put them right outside the door. Keep in mind, the compound I live in has a hallway of rooms and then a courtyard, off the courtyard are the toilets (pits), showers, and kitchen. So to go anywhere outside of my room I was bombarded with the kids being like "Good morning! Howe areee YU?" which sounds pleasant, until they stare and watch everything you do. closely.
Now when I went in for my Peace Corps interview, they ask a bunch of questions, including "How do you feel about living with the Fishbowl Effect (aka, everyone watching your every move)?" And you know i was all confident and said, "Oh after being in Beijing where people will take photos of you and with you, when they don't know you and talk about the waiguoren and Brazil where everyone knew who the American was I'm sure I can get used to it" Neither of those could have prepared me for this level of interest. I got used to it during training, but I also usually had back-up of a couple other trainees to diffuse everything, or I was with my family. I can make a game of it most of the time, like when the kids follow and touch your arm or leg to make sure you feel human I'll touch them back or joke around with them. In church, I've just gotten used to the stares and I can just zone out. But, it's still intimidating when the kids swarm you. I can't wait for the day when this doesn't bug me as much. It'll come.
SO, i got a great deal of that this weekend and I think both the volume, and the fact that there was no safe place made it tough. But then the really confusing part of this weekend was that I was never really sure of where I fit in to the whole thing. I had a vague schedule but the person I thought was in charge was never anywhere to be found so I did a lot of wandering. This would be fine if I were Rwandan, they just stand around and watch or wander fairly often. They have mastered the art of doing naco (nothing). I'm working on it. I was standing around and making a bit of conversation on Saturday morning while they were making mud bricks and then jumped into the process. It was nice, they were working and laughing WITH me. And then after about an hour, I went to clean up and got roped into choir practice! (Now, when I was here for my visit, I stopped by to see them and they invited me to join, and of course, on the spot, I said yes...) Since then, I sang with them at the Bishop's mass and during a 2 hr rehearsal. We'll see where that goes. I like singing, but all the music is just lyrics hand-written out in various notebooks (no staff, notes, etc. a little tricky)
Then I was just kinda hanging out until my presentation which was supposed to start at 1, but i had no idea where or for how many kids of what ages. I had planned on using the time to do some community analysis and get some info from them while they worked in groups (minimal kinyarwanda, max output). After actually finding who was organizing things, I found out that wasn't going to be possible. It didn't help that Saturday happened to be a day where everything was going in one ear and out the other...i was completely incapable of comprehending kinyarwanda. SUPER great timing! But I made it through the presentation and actually got some ideas of the problems they're facing and then driving home the point that I was there to help...but that they had the ultimate power to fix things. After this, I collapsed in my bed for a nap to recover. Sunday was the WORLD'S LONGEST MASS. They felt the need to recap the weekend, in excessive detail...including the homily that everyone was present for. Department of Redundancy Department, much? My patience is also in direct correlation with level of hunger. BUT I survived...the whole 4 hr. thing.
On the bright side...
I do think there are many fulfilling things that I could be doing here, I'm just working on putting those together...and it's a slow process. I've been given a very traditional Peace Corps position in that I don't have a real organization that I'm working with...or a supervisor...or coworkers. I just have to make it up as I go along. I've never dealt with that before but I'm taking it as an opportunity to make this what I want it to be and as freedom to find the things that I find fulfilling. yeah...that's it.

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

it's a Two-FER

and fer the last 2 weeks!
July 8th-So we have a little thing, amongst some of us volunteers, that we call Humpty Dumpty Days. They are days where you fall apart and can't get back together again. They were decreasing for a period, but with the upcoming exams, language proficiency interrogation, and Swearing-In ceremony, they are coming with increasing frequency. They are largely amusing for us, and in general, for those around us. (Any one not suffering from a Humpty-Dumpty day initially often suffers a contact Humpty-Dumpty day.) AND our poor, dear LCFs (Language & Cross-Cultural Facilitators) suffer the brunt of the madness that ensues with any Humpty-Dumpty days. Many hilarious and useless conversations have been the result of those. They should be addressed in the Pre-Service Training we receive and how to recover from them (it's just like dealing with Dementors. chocolate is required)


July 19th-It's official! I'm a volunteer! it happened and I can proudly say I passed "with flying colors" and nice comments. I survived my French speech at Swear-In with few blunders and got really excited about everything in the moment. I'm not gonna lie, the cheesy lines about adventure and development totally still appeal to me. Surviving everything and getting good feedback was obviously very encouraging after the demoralization that is mandatory in this adjustment process. I'm not even gonna lie, I'm proud of my "Advanced" status on the Language Proficiency Interrogation. I studied my butt off, i love when that's worth it. But now the real test...

I'm at site! Fivel, the cat that serendipitously wandered into the Peace Corps office one week before swear-in, and I are very happy out East. I would be lying if I said I was comfortable...but I'm gonna get there. I have to accept that it will be hard again to go to shops, with the stares and 50 children in tow. It will be hard sometimes, to go out of my room and force myself to have awkward conversations with the people in my compound. I will likely suffer some actual, physical burns as a result of my not-up-to-code kerosene cooking stove. But on the bright side, I've already been doing it for almost 3 months somewhere else, and while a new place presents all new challenges, I know I'm capable of conquering them! Also, if all else fails, I know I can live off grilled peanut butter sandwiches and pineapple! AND this time, my kinyarwanda is MOSTLY functional! i can hang.

Luckily, on the other side of things, what I was most scared of...finding purpose and usefulness, has been less difficult than anticipated. I still only manage a few hours of actual work a day, but that's part of the job desciption...figuring out your job. This is significantly more difficult than having one handed to you, but then you can also considering everything an accomplishment! I have established that I'll be 'working' at the pre-school next door with the nuns (they mentioned helping w/ drawing and clay time...i'm gonna try to slip some hygiene English songs), I'm working on a connection with setting a Camp GLOW and Camp BE (PC int'l. projects for helping with confidence-building, communications skills and the like for dev. purposes), and trying to establish something for the organization I was ostensibly sent here to help create. BUT on the bright side of this all, I'm helping at a small Conference thing for the youths of the area and I get to do some community analysis with them which will hopefully be a jumping-off point and I've talked to my supervisor about getting in touch with the director of a home for street children and plan on getting back in touch with the directors of locals schools so I can work on forming English clubs there! This will happen! Even amidst all the scrutiny that I have constantly, including the girl that is currently just standing outside the window, watching me work....make THAT conversation, and within moments they multiply and now there are 8 kids out the window...at 4:30 PM saying "Good morning! How are you?" followed by my neighbor slash fellow-compound-dweller and the kinyarwanda "what-do-you-know-that-I-can-point-at" Quiz begins...just another day.