Today is my first day for my research internship! As is the way of things here, my first week was funemployment because the whole office was in Burundi...which we, of course, didn't know about until about 3 days before we were supposed to be working. BUT it was good times, we used the week to get reacquainted with Kigali and I got to catch up with many of the Peace Corps crew that were on their way out. It was quite strange seeing them and thinking of where I would have been/how I would have felt had I stayed that other year..but in the end, I felt reassured that I made the right choice for me and being back in Rwanda in these terms is where I'm meant to be and what I'm meant to be doing.
I've got my little office here in Kigali with my two fellow MDP interns, looking out my window at some guava trees and the rolling hills of Kigali. We've got our little house all 8 of us together and we're already absorbing into our group all the expat interns in Kigs, it seems! We've found yoga classes & free film screenings, feels like a normal life a la Dublin, ....but in nice weather! I find that all very encouraging as I've recently developed a plan to work myself out of student debt by living somewhere in the developing world for a couple years after I graduate...hopefully furthering my career, living cheaply AND getting a nice tan! I'm thinking I'll stick to coffee-producing countries just for the sake of my sanity. (In this case, sanity is synonymous with caffeine addiction.)
Plus, where in the US or Europe could I attend events like a baby gorilla naming ceremony?? It was mostly just speeches and a lot of lipsynching performances by Rwandan pop stars...BUT where else could I see a Jeffrey Sachs, Isaiah Washington, two Dutch movie stars, a lady from the Kenyan elephant rescue, and a pompous Nollywood actor ALL in festive traditional Rwandan formal wear (that looks remarkably like a shiny toga....)
And I got to showcase my own Rwandan sing-along talents which delighted all the Rwandans around at the ceremony and prompted the older woman behind me to slap me so hard on the back in joy (rwandans love a hard pat for affection) that I nearly lost my vocal chords. Everyone else around once they noticed (as my original intention was just to sing along with the concert like anyone else) began to bust out their cameras and record the muzungu singing along in Kinyarwanda...don't be surprised when I'm famous here.
Monday, June 24, 2013
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
back in rwanda!
Back in Rwanda, folks! I've had all the deja vu of landing in Kigali, lugging my bags out to our waiting bus and heading off in the night towards the bright lights of the big city!
I've enjoyed the cozy feeling of tucking into bed with the mosquito net around me, also the smug satisfaction of outsmarting those little buggers for another night! I cleverly yell "bite me!" as I lay down happily...and no, the joke never gets old for me.
I've had a couple of classic Rwandan experiences in the past few days...
We went to get phones for everyone in our one morning in Kigali, and as resident-non-Rwandan-Kinyarwanda-speaker, I was doing some bargaining and jumped on helping get phones for others. I had to walk away from two different shops to get a good deal and while the others bemoaned the extra work for the equivalent of 2 euro, I was bent and determined for the principle of it. I KNEW we could get the phones for 10000 francs (~12 euro) so I couldn't stop until we did. And while the Rwandans stood around me laughing and my MDP student friends stood confused but amused by the situation, I'll be damned if I didn't get those phones for just that.
BUT at the beginning, I already had my own unlocked phone so I just needed to procure a sim card and some credit to become functional. I remember sim cards being 1000francs previously, though they included 500f credit. So I called over one of the young'uns in a yellow MTN vest and got my card and 1000f to start things off. However, as I went to get sim cards for others, and helped them figure out the currency and what it meant, I realized the cards were only 500f. Now, my dear little boy hadn't told me that when I bought my card...luckily, seeing the potential wealth of all the credit to be bought by 12 abazungus (white people/foreigners), he was still buzzing around. In kinyarwanda, I reminded him that I had paid him 500f more and that it was bad culture not to be truthful...While it may seem a bit much for the equivalent of about 75 cents...some standard shaming was necessary....just all part of the life.
We also have enjoyed the many fine dining options that Butare has to offer...(sarcasm intended if not audible). One of the few places open on Sunday evening was "The Chinese Restaurant" which seems to have no Chinese people actually associated with its operation. The menu is extensive, but upon arrival, we were told that actually only 3 dishes were available: Stir-fried beef, stir-fried pork, or fish....We have quite a few limitations in the dietary needs of our group so we just ordered some rice, beef and fish....
2 hours later...the sizzling beef came out with the rice, the fish was nowhere to be found, but this wasn't even the fun part! We were eating outside because of course, we wanted to enjoy the night and heat (READ- lack of rain & warmth that are so common in Ireland)...but as such, our lighting options were limited (READ-none).
Keeping my trusty flashlight always in my purse right next to my bug spray and sun cream, we were able to work through the menu, but no such thing was necessary or made sense for eating. It could have come in handy though, because when the "beef" arrived, it certainly didn't taste like any beef I've ever had in my life...we began to go through all the possible options....'maybe it's just a fatty cut of beef,' 'it doesn't TASTE like goat,' 'maybe its the sauce...' 'it's not tough enough for goat...'
Obviously, this didn't stop us from eating, but we will never know what exactly it was we had. I was just happy with the lack of rocks & dirt!
I've enjoyed the cozy feeling of tucking into bed with the mosquito net around me, also the smug satisfaction of outsmarting those little buggers for another night! I cleverly yell "bite me!" as I lay down happily...and no, the joke never gets old for me.
I've had a couple of classic Rwandan experiences in the past few days...
We went to get phones for everyone in our one morning in Kigali, and as resident-non-Rwandan-Kinyarwanda-speaker, I was doing some bargaining and jumped on helping get phones for others. I had to walk away from two different shops to get a good deal and while the others bemoaned the extra work for the equivalent of 2 euro, I was bent and determined for the principle of it. I KNEW we could get the phones for 10000 francs (~12 euro) so I couldn't stop until we did. And while the Rwandans stood around me laughing and my MDP student friends stood confused but amused by the situation, I'll be damned if I didn't get those phones for just that.
BUT at the beginning, I already had my own unlocked phone so I just needed to procure a sim card and some credit to become functional. I remember sim cards being 1000francs previously, though they included 500f credit. So I called over one of the young'uns in a yellow MTN vest and got my card and 1000f to start things off. However, as I went to get sim cards for others, and helped them figure out the currency and what it meant, I realized the cards were only 500f. Now, my dear little boy hadn't told me that when I bought my card...luckily, seeing the potential wealth of all the credit to be bought by 12 abazungus (white people/foreigners), he was still buzzing around. In kinyarwanda, I reminded him that I had paid him 500f more and that it was bad culture not to be truthful...While it may seem a bit much for the equivalent of about 75 cents...some standard shaming was necessary....just all part of the life.
We also have enjoyed the many fine dining options that Butare has to offer...(sarcasm intended if not audible). One of the few places open on Sunday evening was "The Chinese Restaurant" which seems to have no Chinese people actually associated with its operation. The menu is extensive, but upon arrival, we were told that actually only 3 dishes were available: Stir-fried beef, stir-fried pork, or fish....We have quite a few limitations in the dietary needs of our group so we just ordered some rice, beef and fish....
2 hours later...the sizzling beef came out with the rice, the fish was nowhere to be found, but this wasn't even the fun part! We were eating outside because of course, we wanted to enjoy the night and heat (READ- lack of rain & warmth that are so common in Ireland)...but as such, our lighting options were limited (READ-none).
Keeping my trusty flashlight always in my purse right next to my bug spray and sun cream, we were able to work through the menu, but no such thing was necessary or made sense for eating. It could have come in handy though, because when the "beef" arrived, it certainly didn't taste like any beef I've ever had in my life...we began to go through all the possible options....'maybe it's just a fatty cut of beef,' 'it doesn't TASTE like goat,' 'maybe its the sauce...' 'it's not tough enough for goat...'
Obviously, this didn't stop us from eating, but we will never know what exactly it was we had. I was just happy with the lack of rocks & dirt!
Thursday, June 6, 2013
Packing
I'm not sure if I've ever done a post or not on packing, seems like just the sort of thing I'd do...avoid the actual act of packing by writing about it. You'd think with the number of times I've had to pack up my life to move or travel that I'd be used to it by now, maybe even get excited about it as a part of my travelling ritual...if i had one, which i don't.
But I love the flying, I love airports (odd, i know) and I even get oddly excited in the bustle of public transport on my way to the airport, knowing that the next adventure awaits me. I'm about to embark on something new and everything else is just another obstacle in the process. I revel in beating the lines and mastering the self-service kiosk, having all the paperwork at hand, ready for check-in and my cute passport cover. I pat myself on the back for having my liquids at the top of my bag, my belt off, bobby pins out and jacket off as I go through security, falling in easily behind all the business travelers who know the drill. Then I strut through the terminal, iced latte (or hot, depending on time of year, eggnog for Christmas, obv). With my well-packed rolling bag, noise-cancelling headphones...i love it. I love it!
BUT packing!!!! BAH! bane of my existence! My arch-nemesis!
The list of things that I can do that are NOT packing is endless...
I mean, I have to do all the pre-packing shopping..that can carry on for days.
I have to pack up my things that AREN'T coming with.
I have to clean all my clothes so that I 'have to' run around naked for a few days before I go.
I have to get copies of keys made...then color code with my nail polish.
I have to go have picnics
I have to go see Shakespeare plays in parks
I have to have a pre-departure sushi night
I have to accompany other people on their pre-packing shopping
I have to do paint swatch projects from pinterest
I have to re-watch all of Game of Thrones
I have to catch up on Modern Family and New Girl
I have to do & re-do my hair several times a day just for fun
I have to paint my nails....
As you can see, I'm far too busy to pack until a few hours before I fly out. I accept my conditions though, I always say, "I've got my passport, money and ticket, I can live without everything else." At which point someone usually retorts with "clothes, underwear?" and I simply reply, "completely optional"
But I love the flying, I love airports (odd, i know) and I even get oddly excited in the bustle of public transport on my way to the airport, knowing that the next adventure awaits me. I'm about to embark on something new and everything else is just another obstacle in the process. I revel in beating the lines and mastering the self-service kiosk, having all the paperwork at hand, ready for check-in and my cute passport cover. I pat myself on the back for having my liquids at the top of my bag, my belt off, bobby pins out and jacket off as I go through security, falling in easily behind all the business travelers who know the drill. Then I strut through the terminal, iced latte (or hot, depending on time of year, eggnog for Christmas, obv). With my well-packed rolling bag, noise-cancelling headphones...i love it. I love it!
BUT packing!!!! BAH! bane of my existence! My arch-nemesis!
The list of things that I can do that are NOT packing is endless...
I mean, I have to do all the pre-packing shopping..that can carry on for days.
I have to pack up my things that AREN'T coming with.
I have to clean all my clothes so that I 'have to' run around naked for a few days before I go.
I have to get copies of keys made...then color code with my nail polish.
I have to go have picnics
I have to go see Shakespeare plays in parks
I have to have a pre-departure sushi night
I have to accompany other people on their pre-packing shopping
I have to do paint swatch projects from pinterest
I have to re-watch all of Game of Thrones
I have to catch up on Modern Family and New Girl
I have to do & re-do my hair several times a day just for fun
I have to paint my nails....
As you can see, I'm far too busy to pack until a few hours before I fly out. I accept my conditions though, I always say, "I've got my passport, money and ticket, I can live without everything else." At which point someone usually retorts with "clothes, underwear?" and I simply reply, "completely optional"
Tuesday, June 4, 2013
Back to RWANDA!
Here we go, again! I'm back to the wilds of Rwanda! I was pretty sure it was coming. When I did my research on this program at Trinity, I knew they had a connection with NUR (the National University of Rwanda) and I was fine with that. As crazy as my relationship had been with Rwanda, we had our ups & downs, love/hate moments & if it had to be described on Facebook could only be under the heading "it's complicated".
But I figured, hey, language experience, knowledge of the transport system, cultural quirks and ready responses to the MUZUNGU call...this could all only be in my favor!
We got news half-way through the year that we would significantly more options thanks to all our MDP (Masters in Development Practice) network partners. Tanzania, Bangladesh, Uganda, Sierra Leone, and Brazil, were suddenly on the table. As much as I was anxious to see a new place and get another experience under my belt the best project for me was in Rwanda.
I'm going to be working with Trocaire, an Irish development organization that does extensive work in Africa. Silly people have entrusted me with the very serious task of evaluating social welfare programs in Rwanda for vulnerable populations....a lot of development buzzwords and not a whole lot of meaning. We'll see how that goes...in the meantime, I'm also supposed to be gathering research for my Masters thesis/dissertation/thingy. (It shows how ready I am for that considering I don't even know its proper title!)
But BRING IT ON!
I know what to pack this time (lots of sunscreen, bug spray and spices!) I've got my maxi dresses ready for my culturally appropriate NON-knee bearing and the pit latrines and I've revived my little blog for the next adventure. So let's go!
But I figured, hey, language experience, knowledge of the transport system, cultural quirks and ready responses to the MUZUNGU call...this could all only be in my favor!
We got news half-way through the year that we would significantly more options thanks to all our MDP (Masters in Development Practice) network partners. Tanzania, Bangladesh, Uganda, Sierra Leone, and Brazil, were suddenly on the table. As much as I was anxious to see a new place and get another experience under my belt the best project for me was in Rwanda.
I'm going to be working with Trocaire, an Irish development organization that does extensive work in Africa. Silly people have entrusted me with the very serious task of evaluating social welfare programs in Rwanda for vulnerable populations....a lot of development buzzwords and not a whole lot of meaning. We'll see how that goes...in the meantime, I'm also supposed to be gathering research for my Masters thesis/dissertation/thingy. (It shows how ready I am for that considering I don't even know its proper title!)
But BRING IT ON!
I know what to pack this time (lots of sunscreen, bug spray and spices!) I've got my maxi dresses ready for my culturally appropriate NON-knee bearing and the pit latrines and I've revived my little blog for the next adventure. So let's go!
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