Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Back on the emerald isle!

I can't remember the last time I called it the Emerald Isle, but it's just so pretty & green this morning that I couldn't help but call it that! I'm sitting back in our quiet post-grad reading room that always makes me feel smart & accomplished... i had korean twice yesterday...i have a beautiful big cheap coffee in front of me...slept in my big awesome bed last night, cool and happy...life is GOOD!
I even slept a bit on the plane from Rwanda, I accomplished the rare, -get dinner, finish movie, sleep & wake up for breakfast- combo that is absolutely ideal for overnight flights! Twas a beautiful thing! And I was happy to leave Rwanda but when the plane was taking off, i got a bit choked up. It hit me out of nowhere and i certainly didn't expect it, but it happened! I think it's because I have no idea when I'm gonna get back there...i know it will happen cause I can't seem to stay away for too long, but at least this was "bye for a while"
Now i have to dive back into the hell that is finding an apt in Dublin in September b/c my landlord was a bit crazy when I came home, but i'm not homeless yet! I've got a week, so wish me luck! I am so excited for this upcoming year though, i was so excited to come back but i'd even forgotten some of the things I love so much here. Walking across the harp bridge (or riding across on my bike) with the sun lighting my face and glistening off the water from Dublin bay...i truly have to take a picture of that and post it here because it's the single greatest scene in my life here. It somehow encapsulates everything I love about life here.
That, and a photo series of live pub seshes...went for one last night and even though we were in Temple Bar surrounded by tourists, it felt like our Dublin. So cheers to that! Cheers to another year in a place that actually feels like home.

Friday, August 30, 2013

pre-nostalgia

I've been pleasantly surprised at the end of this all...amused by the nostalgia & fondness for everything here that's setting in. I've only got about 53.4 hours left in the country (not that i'm counting) and while I'm ready to get back to Dublin and haven't had a life-changing experience or anything, I'm glad I got to come back. I'm glad I got to have a bit of a different experience here. When prompted the other day to rate the experience on a scale of 1 to 10, I gave it a 6...not because it'd been anything particularly bad, but nothing spectacular. And compared to some times in the previous year, of trips to Portugal, Spain, France & even running around Dublin with some of my US friends, it just wasn't as great...(yeah, admittedly, i really like life right now, it's not so rough) I don't think there's anything wrong with looking critically at what I've gotten out of this, maybe even negatively as long as I appreciate the good parts, and those were here too!
There were definitely some sunsets under the avocado tree that made me glad I came and made me realize how much I appreciate the change of scenery and some elements of the life here.

 My placement wasn't the internship I hoped for, but I feel good about the work I did and what I had to do to get it done. I didn't get to see anywhere I hadn't before, no safaris, gorillas or rainforests, but I'm pretty confident that I'm gonna be back in Rwanda sometime, and further, with more money to really enjoy those things and do them the posh, muzungu way, while still retaining some of the Peace Corps perspective that I'm unlikely ever to completely lose. And I'm glad of that cause I do think it's unique. The other weekend at a barge party on Lake Kivu (the first of its kind) I met up with some fellow RPCVs from Burkina Faso and the list of experiences and expectations was so similar you'd think we'd all been in the same places doing the same things.

As I look for internships for this upcoming year in Dublin I'm having to encapsulate my experience into a CV-enhancing, super-active, professional, awesome thing. In doing so and in creating my presentation of my "research findings," I am able to appreciate what I've gotten out of all this, but I've also come to remind myself of what else (and how much else) there's still for me to do in my life quest!  Bring it on....Round 2? 3? i might've lost count...i'm okay with that.

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Rachel rates

It's no great secret that I am a big fan of bargaining anywhere I can. On occasion, I just want to see a price, accept the price, and pay said price. However, most of the time, I derive significantly more satisfaction from haggling over what often amounts to 10 to 50 cents. It may not seem like much and it may even seem petty to some, but I have several reasons for fighting for those 18 cents.
  1. It's all part of the culture...in some places, they even get offended if you don't join in on the fun.  I always call to mind an awesome interaction with an old Chinese woman over 1 kuai (1/7 of a dollar) for a fake Coach wallet. By the end, we were both cracking up and hugging after the exchange, appreciating each other's false resolve.
  2. While price discrimination may seem like a dirty word, it makes sense economically, if you're willing to spend the time and energy to fight for the price you think you should be paying, you should pay it, it's just another type of opportunity cost. (For those not into Econ- blah blah, paying, blah blah, rachel's a cheapskate justifying herself, blah.)
  3. I'm doing it for the benefit of all muzungus. (She says to herself magnanimously) Many in Rwanda (and elsewhere) assume all Americans just have money to burn. While I recognize that even the poor in America are on average better off than the poor elsewhere, it doesn't diminish their difficulties. I make it a point to explain that not everyone in America is rich AND that life is in general, much more expensive there. So while I can't explain purchasing power parities, I can give them the price of a pair of shoes (or a college education) and absolutely blow their minds! The most difficult part of them assuming we're all rich is that they feel they then have the right to constantly ask for things (money, pens, bananas, and once, chocolate...uh buh?!) Now most of the people who are asking don't even need these things, they're just sooo used to foreigners coming in and giving things that they figure, "eh, can't hurt to ask" and this is equally true in price negotiations. Moto rides are a perfect example... now, we've recently noticed that sometimes Rwandans don't even negotiate a price before the ride, they simply state the destination, make sure the driver's not drunk, grab a helmet and hop on. I was taught however, to always predetermine price beforehand. Moto drivers in Kigali have chosen the arbitrary price of 1000 francs as the initial offer for anywhere in Kigali. The final price (and price one should pay) could be anywhere from 300-800 francs but because they see my skin (or general, non-Rwandanness) they just start at 1000 to see if they can get the silly foreigner to pay that much. I often have to laugh in their face or walk away OR even pit them against each other to get them down to a reasonable price or one I'm willing to pay. I figure if I make them realize that not all muzungus will just pay whatever, maybe they won't try to rip us off as often... and yes, I also realize this may be a futile effort. 
  4. Finally, while I may annoy many of my fellow travelers, I really do enjoy the process. I feel like both of us are benefiting from the exchange and we've gotten a nice little dose of human interaction for the day. 
This being said, not everyone enjoys the process as much, some not at all. Often my friends are exasperated by my refusal to pay above a certain price when they won't budge. And they're justifiably annoyed or hesitant to tell me how much they've paid for things they've just gotten from a local craftsman or market mama. I try not to be annoying about it, cause I know it can seem condescending, but really it's just differences in shopping style and hey, you wouldn't have bought it if you didn't think it was worth that amount so we're all just paying what we think we should...I just happen to think I should always pay a Rachel rate...or a bit less, but I'll also always be willing to fight for it, it's one of the few fights I actually enjoy!  

Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Best & Worst

It's funny how widely your interactions with people can vary in a week...
I've only got 11 more days here in Rwanda (this time around, cause clearly i cannot get away from this place for long) and I've finally harassed people enough to talk to me, bringing my interview count up to 9, which really doesn't sound like enough considering all the time I've put into the process! How many calls & emails constitute stalking??
Some of the interviews have been really great. This morning, while I did have to get up far too early for the 7am interview,  it was worthwhile. I spoke with a high-up in one of the Gender ministries here. The guy I interviewed had one of the best concepts of the socialization foundations for gender that I've yet encountered, which is funny because 7 of the other interviewees have been women. In my research I've been trying to assess the relative vulnerability of female-headed households (FHH cause that's all i have the patience to write). In a developing context a FHH, is usually one in which a woman has been widowed, is a single mother, or has had to separate from the father for some reason. While this is a relatively common occurrence in many places, it can have much more drastic effects for women in developing countries where their relative position in society is already disadvantaged. But when I ask about whether or not FHH should be considered a vulnerable population and why, I get some interesting answers...
One women the other day said, "well, it is clear...the women are not prepared for the responsibilities of being the breadwinner"
Maybe it's just me, while I understand that line of logic, it still speaks to some sort of incapacity of the woman (regardless of the reason)
This morning's interviewee gave me a great analogy about a man's brain/ideas being like a moto and woman's being like a bus...one may be faster, but it carries less with it, it has less capacity. Once the bus is able to go on it's own, it can be just as fast but carrying more with it. To use an oft-cited development cliche he gave me an illustration of "resilience" as opposed to "vulnerability" He also spoke of how socialization has constrained women to limit their own capacity. Which seems obvious to fans of gender talk...but is great coming from a man in a position of power and in Rwanda...
Now this being in stark contrast to my interactions at the market on Saturday where one of my favorite veg sellers (a man) disappointingly became a little too attached to the idea of me being his inshyuti or friend (which can be meant in both the platonic and non-platonic way). Just the fact that he thought he could kiss me in a crowded public market w/ no encouragement on my part speaks to the general regard for women, "you are what I want you to be, when I want you to be it..."
I'll save the, it's hard to make friends in rwanda talk for another post (which I may have already done), but needless to say, most of my time has been spent w/ fellow expats who understand a bit more about me, my thoughts, feelings, and my deep love for wine and foods other than rice, beans & potatoes (NUTTY, i know!)

Monday, August 12, 2013

On the up and up!

Headed into the final stretch here...I dunno if 20 days seems like the final stretch to anyone else, but it certainly does to me! I guess I only respond to pressure, because I've been more active today than in the last two weeks combined. A healthy dose of fear, I suppose!
I've scheduled more interviews, am trying to find as many organizations as possible to speak with, AND am trying to sort out an internship for the upcoming year (cause a thesis, full course load and weekend job clearly aren't enough!) Regrettably, I keep seeming to miss internship application deadlines by just a few days! It's a curse, but i am bent & determined, and will thus, persevere!! If I have to just start emailing people saying, "Hey I know you didn't ask for it...but I'll work for you for freeee!" I will.

I've also been grappling with the issue of next summer...where to go, what to do.... Maybe it's just me, but I find it so difficult to make choices when my options are pretty much-anything.......anywhere. Maybe I just really like ellipses...
I've got another year of coursework in old Dublin, then the world is my oyster, or job offer. I was talking to my sister recently and was thinking about how nice it would be to be a little closer to home, working in the states or even Europe. The option to see the fam more than once a year would be fantastic, but I'm sure it's possible just yet.
I'll be looking mostly in India & SE Asia I think, since that seems to be my biggest gap in world experience so far. If so, lucky you, a whole new place that I can over-simplify, misinterpret and in general, give you an extremely biased account of! I'm looking forward to the next internship because it will be more so on my own terms, I can find an awesome women-empowering, human rights-focused, or human-trafficking concern organization and get some valuable experience, without the stinky burden of research and my thesis looming overhead.
I'm also excited and ready for it because I'm feeling more and more that this is the path I wanna be on. I've found in the last 2 months how little I'm bothered by the stuff that used to drive me crazy last time. Maybe it's because I constantly expect it, or I've already gone through the painful adjustment phase of expat life and into the bitter acceptance phase. 9 times out of 10 (the one time being when i'm really tired or hungover) I don't mind the long waits, or mess of the market, or the crowd for the bus, or the stares, even the echoes of "muzungu" in my ear just wash over me. It all glides past in a wave of "this is life as we know it" and doesn't bring me down or affect my days the way it used to. It's not been an easy path and I had a pretty painful year of adjustment, but I'm very pleased with this result.
In an odd way, I feel like that, coupled with my love of flying and airports and jumping into awkward situations when i'm only kind of understood, and my affection for noises & gestures over words makes me feel oddly suited for this career path...I guess we'll see in the time to come, but bring on the next adventure!

Monday, July 29, 2013

over the hump...into the slump

So we've hit the halfway point for our short time in Rwanda. 5 weeks from today I'll be back in Dublin. I'm not gonna lie, I'm really excited about that prospect. I've been scouring websites for internships and such for once I'm back in Dublin...it's a small world, but I'm hoping I just might get lucky.
BUT I am trying to enjoy the last month here. I know it's gonna go quickly, so I don't need to wish for that or anticipate the passage of time. In the last week, I was hitting a slump. I was annoyed at all the little things that I've become so used to, I'm typically pretty good at ignoring. It's the old laundry list of complaints really: stares, "muzungu" calls and whisperings, the lack of certainty with things (is this bus that i'm on, which has always gone to the same place, not going to today? will the market be open if i trek out there?) These may sound like odd or unrealistic concerns, but they're all borne from experience...
Sometimes, the energy it takes to glaze over all these things is just more than you have. The temptation becomes too much, the temptation to stay in your bed, under your net, and with your brain happily lost in whatever TV show you're addicted to at the time. (It takes dedication to go through that many seasons of True Blood or Gossip Girl or the Office! not for the faint of heart!)
It doesn't help that the initial burst of excitement from getting some "real" research done has worn off, my initiatives to get more interviews or do some focus groups have stagnated. My fairly competitive self is also seeing the work of my classmates and the great strides being made and getting grumpy. I think I'm also lost because usually I know the steps I could be/should be taking to make things better. Where I should be looking, whom I should be contacting....but at the moment, I don't. I feel like I've exhausted my resources (which are limited as it is) and not sure how to expand out w/o diluting my work or feeling like I'm doing interviews just to be having them. In other news, how many times can one bug a ministry into speaking with them??
I guess I'll bury myself in reading this week, cause that'll help my field report (that's due at the end of all this) and see if that doesn't lead me on to somewhere new or something new to ask someone I've already bothered. (insert Potter Puppet Pals "BotherbotherBotherbotherBother")

On a brighter note, it does seem that whenever I hit a low point, I have an experience or meet someone that brings me back up. Yesterday, I had a lovely burrito lunch and attempted to go to Kimironko (my favorite market because of all the exciting veg & herbs that aren't present elsewhere). Unfortunately, it was closed...i couldn't believe it til I walked up to the locked gate, because I've never seen it closed before and have gone on Sunday afternoons often. No discernible reason why, though I suspect it might have to do with the grenade attack on Friday. It happened in Nyabugogo and it was the first time (that I'm aware of) where people were actually killed, 2 ...and another 30+ injured.
Obviously, I'm well & fine, and my mild annoyance at the market closure is nothing to the pain of people that were there. I honestly have no idea what this means for Rwanda and the DRC and what kind of mess the two will get into. I can only hope for peace and an end to the use of lives of innocents to make a point.

Wow, so not great at bringing things to a happier note...I got sidetracked, but my original purpose was to explain how pleasant the interactions at my nearby market had been. How unstressful, smiley, appreciative the experience had been yesterday afternoon. The mama's were nice and in awe of the kinyarwanda, as always, but it took a tone of appreciation instead of bizarre curiosity or mockery, which is always preferable. Long story short, I basked in those interactions on my short, cool walk home and enjoyed the great sunset from our garden (which i must post pictures of)...a scene I never get sick of, even if it happens every day. At least there's always something to look forward to!


Thursday, July 11, 2013

how's Suri's burnbook relates to Rwanda

in keeping with my unintentional theme of blogging about other blogs, today's post is (somewhat) inspired by http://surisburnbook.tumblr.com
it's funny how i always know the most about Hollywood gossip when I'm the furthest from it, in every sense of the word. when you have so much time, it's a lot easier to justify spending inordinate amounts of it looking at brainless, but amusing stuff. how else can you possibly explain going through not 1, not 2, but 26 pages of this damn tumblr yesterday?? Yes, I impressed even myself!
If you're not familiar with it, it's a tumblr with posts about celebrities and their kids, in particular, the Royal baby (which isn't even born yet), Blue Ivy (child of Beyonce & Jay Z), the Beckham kids and the Jolie-Pitt pack, as told by TomKat's Suri Cruise. It's pretty funny imagining an angry 7 year old with scathing commentary primarily about how much better/more fashionable she is than other celebrity kids. While that all seems about the furthest thing from Rwanda and the kids here as can be imagined, it wasn't the ridiculousness of their outfits, toys, etc. that struck me.
What was striking was the number of times the Dads were pictured with their respective children...granted the majority were still the kids with their mothers, but frequently both parents, or just the father is pictured. Accepting how un-gender equal even American & European societies are, I was struck by how seldom I see this same picture in Rwandan society. I see it so rarely that I'm absolutely aghast at the site of just a father with his child. I wonder what has happened to the mother...I usually assume dead or ran off, which is terrible. I acknowledge that that's a gross oversimplification and assumption, but the rarity of the situation lends itself to the more outlandish of ideas. The burden of childcare here is so firmly fixed upon mothers that even if the father were to be sitting at home doing nothing, and the mother had a full day of field labor, the likelihood that the child would NOT be strapped to the mama's back is next to none. Past the pregnancy and even accepting the nursing stages, there's no biological reason why the mother has to be taking care of the child, and yet, traditions and society deem that it must be so.
This all ties in very easily with the number of times I shock Rwandans by telling them I have no kids. How could I, at my ripe, old age, continue to be without? Probably something wrong with me! Yes, in fact there is, I have these quirky ideas about becoming educated and making a career for myself before beginning that whole process. I understand that this is also a societal notion, my society has led me one way while their's has led them another. BUT why is it then, whenever girls are given the option for later marriage and more education, they more than often than not, will take that option?
I was told by a well-educated colleague of a friend's that I should do it now, because I can do all the educating myself and job acquisition later, after I have children...but how long after? Months, years, decades? Needless to say, I wasn't exactly persuaded by that option... so in the meantime I'll just quell all these maternal instincts with Hollywood surrogates.

Tuesday, July 9, 2013

"The Field" and other cleverness

So, if you haven't already, and if you're curious, you should happen over to the site http://stuffexpataidworkerslike.com/ because it's hilarious and very often, understands my life in a way I can't even yet. Particularly amusing is # 122 "Letter from an Unemployed Overachiever."

I'm sure you can imagine why that one resonates with a 20-something in the midst of a Masters degree with blind hope a job/career will be at the other end of it. HOPEFULLY a job that doesn't involve any sort of apron, order pad, or cash register. Though I am loathe to let all those years of good coffee drink-making go to waste!

Somehow in the midst of my work this time around in Rwanda, I feel more akin to the EAW than I did as a Peace Corps volunteer. I go to my office in the capital city, retreat to the Expat Coffee Shop when our internet's down; I enjoy my hot showers and electricity and occasionally even get driven around in the classic white NGO SUV...but there are still some things that remain elusive, among them, working in "the field."

It's a magical place where your research gets done, where you have purpose and a job to do! You're talking to your focus groups, conducting your interviews and in general, being EAW awesome. You travel out to remote villages and sit under a tree and discuss development! You solve poverty and public health issues and  you educate all the youths! I have done a bit of research assisting here and been in on some focus groups, but most of my work will remain here in Kigali. I'll be talking with some ministries, with the partner organizations and maybe conducting some focus groups with the members of the members of my member organization. (There was no way to put member in there anymore, trust me, I tried) So in short, the "field," will remain elusive to me. Which is why I've decided just to open a bar here in Kigali, called "The Field" where everyone can go and be awesome.
 I can be talking to my organization, "What are you doing today, Rachel?" "Oh, just going out to the field" They'll never suspect a thing!

It might be some time before I can get together the capital to make this dream a reality. Really, it's all part of my development learning. It's a lesson in the access to credit difficulties for women....But, I will someday  open my awesome bar and I can go to "the field" anytime I want!

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Week 2-On some of my actual work, but mostly about market mama's

So begins another exciting week as Rachel Vannice- Int'l. Development Intern by day...lazy book reading bum by night! I know you were holding your breath for the next thrilling installment and here it is! In today's episode: How to navigate Rwandan gov't. policies....How few days can you actually work and still have it count as 'a week'...and What to sing when you're prompted in the market..

This past week, I had the great opportunity to sit in on some focus groups being held by my organization to ascertain the conditions in which civil society organizations (CSOs) work here in Rwanda [though the study will comprise of 4 different countries in Afrca & S. America]. It was a great opportunity to meet some of the leaders of the organizations that I'll be in touch with soon to conduct my own research on social policies and gender issues in Rwanda. It was also a fascinating exercise in candor from a place where this is not terribly commonplace. Though it's only my humble observation and opinion, Rwandans are not very open or forthcoming with their feelings or opinions...especially not about anything political. And call me a cynic, but even when they are, the tendency to tow the company line and extol the virtues of the current government is pervasive. I have had interesting discussions (primarily with my former LCFs who are well-versed in the out-spoken & questioning ways of Americans) about our willingness and eagerness to comment on the political situation in America, usually quite critically. They've been shocked when I explain how anyone can say "Obama sucks" at anytime with complete impunity.
While the organizational leaders were not necessarily critical of the government, they were very forthcoming in the struggles their organizations had faced. It was nice too, to see the ways in which they had used the system to work their way out of their difficult situations. I think it was most interesting for me because we so often just try to change the system as opposed to using it to our advantage.

Speaking of just such a principle is the wonderful fact that this week only consists of two true working days owing to the benefits of not one, but TWO national holidays in Rwanda!  Falling on Monday and Thursday and throwing in Friday just to even things out, I could not be more excited for a 4 day weekend that is likely to include a trip over to Kibuye on Lake Kivu AND some solid brochettes that are the closest thing I can get to an American 4th of July bbq. I feel like I haven't really had a proper 4th of July since leaving Boston but will attempt to keep up the spirit this week by splurging on a watermelon at the market and making some solid ramen cole slaw.
I've already been spoiled by a trip to Kimironko (the most magical of Rwandan markets) where I found lettuce, spinach, cilantro and cucumbers, which I've already used to make salsa (my personal favorite) and plan some epic salads (which I always miss most out of America).
It doesn't hurt that in the meantime, I make quite a few friends in the market! Kinyarwanda (while not the most globally useful language) has served me well here... I can annoy my friends with all the talk of how cheaply I can obtain any daily necessity, create disturbances at public events by singing along to Rwandan pop music AND get serious discounts on produce. By explaining to the women in the market that I've farmed a bit here and used a hoe, they decided that we were abagenzi or co-workers. I have no problem at all with that description, especially if it means cheaper bananas! But I really do love to connect with the people (primarily women) in the market and show them that we abazungus are genuinely interested in their culture and language. You never know where that conversation can lead you, such as a delightful linguistic exchange where a women held my hand and sang to me in kinyarwanda and then ask me to sing with her. After lamenting that I didn't know the song, she asked me to sing one in English...as you can imagine, at that moment, every song I've ever known flew out of my head...save one. So began, my first Rwandan market acapella rendition of "American Pie." While I'm not in the Peace Corps anymore, I'm obviously still incidentally fulfilling the goals of cultural exchange. Maybe next time we can get a round going!

Monday, June 24, 2013

Working girl & baby gorillas (not at the same time or in the same place.....unfortunately)

Today is my first day for my research internship! As is the way of things here, my first week was funemployment because the whole office was in Burundi...which we, of course, didn't know about until about 3 days before we were supposed to be working. BUT it was good times, we used the week to get reacquainted with Kigali and I got to catch up with many of the Peace Corps crew that were on their way out. It was quite strange seeing them and thinking of where I would have been/how I would have felt had I stayed that other year..but in the end, I felt reassured that I made the right choice for me and being back in Rwanda in these terms is where I'm meant to be and what I'm meant to be doing.

I've got my little office here in Kigali with my two fellow MDP interns, looking out my window at some guava trees and the rolling hills of Kigali. We've got our little house all 8 of us together and we're already absorbing into our group all the expat interns in Kigs, it seems! We've found yoga classes & free film screenings, feels like a normal life a la Dublin, ....but in nice weather! I find that all very encouraging as I've recently developed a plan to work myself out of student debt by living somewhere in the developing world for a couple years after I graduate...hopefully furthering my career, living cheaply AND getting a nice tan! I'm thinking I'll stick to coffee-producing countries just for the sake of my sanity. (In this case, sanity is synonymous with caffeine addiction.)

Plus, where in the US or Europe could I attend events like a  baby gorilla naming ceremony?? It was mostly just speeches and a lot of lipsynching performances by Rwandan pop stars...BUT where else could I see a Jeffrey Sachs, Isaiah Washington, two Dutch movie stars, a lady from the Kenyan elephant rescue, and a pompous Nollywood actor ALL in festive traditional Rwandan formal wear (that looks remarkably like a shiny toga....)
And I got to showcase my own Rwandan sing-along talents which delighted all the Rwandans around at the ceremony and prompted the older woman behind me to slap me so hard on the back in joy (rwandans love a hard pat for affection) that I nearly lost my vocal chords. Everyone else around once they noticed (as my original intention was just to sing along with the concert like anyone else) began to bust out their cameras and record the muzungu singing along in Kinyarwanda...don't be surprised when I'm famous here.

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

back in rwanda!

Back in Rwanda, folks! I've had all the deja vu of landing in Kigali, lugging my bags out to our waiting bus and heading off in the night towards the bright lights of the big city!
I've enjoyed the cozy feeling of tucking into bed with the mosquito net around me, also the smug satisfaction of outsmarting those little buggers for another night! I cleverly yell "bite me!" as I lay down happily...and no, the joke never gets old for me.
I've had a couple of classic Rwandan experiences in the past few days...
We went to get phones for everyone in our one morning in Kigali, and as resident-non-Rwandan-Kinyarwanda-speaker, I was doing some bargaining and jumped on helping get phones for others. I had to walk away from two different shops to get a good deal and while the others bemoaned the extra work for the equivalent of 2 euro, I was bent and determined for the principle of it. I KNEW we could get the phones for 10000 francs (~12 euro) so I couldn't stop until we did. And while the Rwandans stood around me laughing and my MDP student friends stood confused but amused by the situation, I'll be damned if I didn't get those phones for just that.
BUT at the beginning, I already had my own unlocked phone so I just needed to procure a sim card and some credit to become functional. I remember sim cards being 1000francs previously, though they included 500f credit. So I called over one of the young'uns in a yellow MTN vest and got my card and 1000f to start things off. However, as I went to get sim cards for others, and helped them figure out the currency and what it meant, I realized the cards were only 500f. Now, my dear little boy hadn't told me that when I bought my card...luckily, seeing the potential wealth of all the credit to be bought by 12 abazungus (white people/foreigners), he was still buzzing around. In kinyarwanda, I reminded him that I had paid him 500f more and that it was bad culture not to be truthful...While it may seem a bit much for the equivalent of about 75 cents...some standard shaming was necessary....just all part of the life.

We also have enjoyed the many fine dining options that Butare has to offer...(sarcasm intended if not audible).  One of the few places open on Sunday evening was "The Chinese Restaurant" which seems to have no Chinese people actually associated with its operation. The menu is extensive, but upon arrival, we were told that actually only 3 dishes were available: Stir-fried beef, stir-fried pork, or fish....We have quite a few limitations in the dietary needs of our group so we just ordered some rice, beef and fish....
2 hours later...the sizzling beef came out with the rice, the fish was nowhere to be found, but this wasn't even the fun part! We were eating outside because of course, we wanted to enjoy the night and heat (READ- lack of rain & warmth that are so common in Ireland)...but as such, our lighting options were limited (READ-none).
Keeping my trusty flashlight always in my purse right next to my bug spray and sun cream, we were able to work through the menu, but no such thing was necessary or made sense for eating. It could have come in handy though, because when the "beef" arrived, it certainly didn't taste like any beef I've ever had in my life...we began to go through all the possible options....'maybe it's just a fatty cut of beef,' 'it doesn't TASTE like goat,' 'maybe its the sauce...' 'it's not tough enough for goat...'
Obviously, this didn't stop us from eating, but we will never know what exactly it was we had. I was just happy with the lack of rocks & dirt!

Thursday, June 6, 2013

Packing

I'm not sure if I've ever done a post or not on packing, seems like just the sort of thing I'd do...avoid the actual act of packing by writing about it. You'd think with the number of times I've had to pack up my life to move or travel that I'd be used to it by now, maybe even get excited about it as a part of my travelling ritual...if i had one, which i don't.
But I love the flying, I love airports (odd, i know) and I even get oddly excited in the bustle of public transport on my way to the airport, knowing that the next adventure awaits me. I'm about to embark on something new and everything else is just another obstacle in the process. I revel in beating the lines and mastering the self-service kiosk, having all the paperwork at hand, ready for check-in and my cute passport cover. I pat myself on the back for having my liquids at the top of my bag, my belt off, bobby pins out and jacket off as I go through security, falling in easily behind all the business travelers who know the drill. Then I strut through the terminal, iced latte (or hot, depending on time of year, eggnog for Christmas, obv). With my well-packed rolling bag, noise-cancelling headphones...i love it. I love it!
BUT packing!!!! BAH! bane of my existence! My arch-nemesis!
The list of things that I can do that are NOT packing is endless...
I mean, I have to do all the pre-packing shopping..that can carry on for days.
I have to pack up my things that AREN'T coming with.
I have to clean all my clothes so that I 'have to' run around naked for a few days before I go.
I have to get copies of keys made...then color code with my nail polish.
I have to go have picnics
I have to go see Shakespeare plays in parks
I have to have a pre-departure sushi night
I have to accompany other people on their pre-packing shopping
I have to do paint swatch projects from pinterest
I have to re-watch all of Game of Thrones
I have to catch up on Modern Family and New Girl
I have to do & re-do my hair several times a day just for fun
I have to paint my nails....

As you can see, I'm far too busy to pack until a few hours before I fly out. I accept my conditions though, I always say, "I've got my passport, money and ticket, I can live without everything else." At which point someone usually retorts with "clothes, underwear?" and I simply reply, "completely optional"



Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Back to RWANDA!

Here we go, again! I'm back to the wilds of Rwanda! I was pretty sure it was coming. When I did my research on this program at Trinity, I knew they had a connection with NUR (the National University of Rwanda) and I was fine with that. As crazy as my relationship had been with Rwanda, we had our ups & downs, love/hate moments & if it had to be described on Facebook could only be under the heading "it's complicated".
But I figured, hey, language experience, knowledge of the transport system, cultural quirks and ready responses to the MUZUNGU call...this could all only be in my favor!
We got news half-way through the year that we would significantly more options thanks to all our MDP (Masters in Development Practice) network partners. Tanzania, Bangladesh, Uganda, Sierra Leone, and Brazil, were suddenly on the table. As much as I was anxious to see a new place and get another experience under my belt the best project for me was in Rwanda.
I'm going to be working with Trocaire, an Irish development organization that does extensive work in Africa. Silly people have entrusted me with the very serious task of evaluating social welfare programs in Rwanda for vulnerable populations....a lot of development buzzwords and not a whole lot of meaning. We'll see how that goes...in the meantime, I'm also supposed to be gathering research for my Masters thesis/dissertation/thingy. (It shows how ready I am for that considering I don't even know its proper title!)
But BRING IT ON!
I know what to pack this time (lots of sunscreen, bug spray and spices!) I've got my maxi dresses ready for my culturally appropriate NON-knee bearing and the pit latrines and I've revived my little blog for the next adventure. So let's go!