So begins another exciting week as Rachel Vannice- Int'l. Development Intern by day...lazy book reading bum by night! I know you were holding your breath for the next thrilling installment and here it is! In today's episode: How to navigate Rwandan gov't. policies....How few days can you actually work and still have it count as 'a week'...and What to sing when you're prompted in the market..
This past week, I had the great opportunity to sit in on some focus groups being held by my organization to ascertain the conditions in which civil society organizations (CSOs) work here in Rwanda [though the study will comprise of 4 different countries in Afrca & S. America]. It was a great opportunity to meet some of the leaders of the organizations that I'll be in touch with soon to conduct my own research on social policies and gender issues in Rwanda. It was also a fascinating exercise in candor from a place where this is not terribly commonplace. Though it's only my humble observation and opinion, Rwandans are not very open or forthcoming with their feelings or opinions...especially not about anything political. And call me a cynic, but even when they are, the tendency to tow the company line and extol the virtues of the current government is pervasive. I have had interesting discussions (primarily with my former LCFs who are well-versed in the out-spoken & questioning ways of Americans) about our willingness and eagerness to comment on the political situation in America, usually quite critically. They've been shocked when I explain how anyone can say "Obama sucks" at anytime with complete impunity.
While the organizational leaders were not necessarily critical of the government, they were very forthcoming in the struggles their organizations had faced. It was nice too, to see the ways in which they had used the system to work their way out of their difficult situations. I think it was most interesting for me because we so often just try to change the system as opposed to using it to our advantage.
Speaking of just such a principle is the wonderful fact that this week only consists of two true working days owing to the benefits of not one, but TWO national holidays in Rwanda! Falling on Monday and Thursday and throwing in Friday just to even things out, I could not be more excited for a 4 day weekend that is likely to include a trip over to Kibuye on Lake Kivu AND some solid brochettes that are the closest thing I can get to an American 4th of July bbq. I feel like I haven't really had a proper 4th of July since leaving Boston but will attempt to keep up the spirit this week by splurging on a watermelon at the market and making some solid ramen cole slaw.
I've already been spoiled by a trip to Kimironko (the most magical of Rwandan markets) where I found lettuce, spinach, cilantro and cucumbers, which I've already used to make salsa (my personal favorite) and plan some epic salads (which I always miss most out of America).
It doesn't hurt that in the meantime, I make quite a few friends in the market! Kinyarwanda (while not the most globally useful language) has served me well here... I can annoy my friends with all the talk of how cheaply I can obtain any daily necessity, create disturbances at public events by singing along to Rwandan pop music AND get serious discounts on produce. By explaining to the women in the market that I've farmed a bit here and used a hoe, they decided that we were abagenzi or co-workers. I have no problem at all with that description, especially if it means cheaper bananas! But I really do love to connect with the people (primarily women) in the market and show them that we abazungus are genuinely interested in their culture and language. You never know where that conversation can lead you, such as a delightful linguistic exchange where a women held my hand and sang to me in kinyarwanda and then ask me to sing with her. After lamenting that I didn't know the song, she asked me to sing one in English...as you can imagine, at that moment, every song I've ever known flew out of my head...save one. So began, my first Rwandan market acapella rendition of "American Pie." While I'm not in the Peace Corps anymore, I'm obviously still incidentally fulfilling the goals of cultural exchange. Maybe next time we can get a round going!
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